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Dash & Door Panel Repair

Posted by David Prince on

Step 1: CLEANING

The cleaning of the vinyl is a vital & essential part of the whole repair process. This not only improves the look of the finished repair but also ensures maximum adhesion.

First, clean thoroughly with Triclean Prep Cleaner (TC) to remove all dirt, wax and silicone contamination. Use a nylon brush or a soft scotch rite pad to reach the stitching, creases and base of the texture. Wipe excess with a paper towel.

Repeat for optimum results.

Wet sand with triclean and 600-grit sand paper to breakdown original topcoat clear which can cause peeling if not removed. Clean with triclean again and wipe away thoroughly.

#DP - Dash Putty

DESCRIPTION: 2 part thick epoxy filler for plastic.

APPLICATION: Cut amount needed. Knead together to mix part A (inside) and part B (outside) completely. Apply, then allow to dry. Sand as needed.

#TF -Tuff Fill

DESCRIPTION: Hi-strength 2 part repair filler & adhesive for plastic, leather & vinyl.

FEATURES: Exceptional adhesion to leather, vinyl & plastic - Outstanding durability - Fast dry (50 second work time) - Sandable - 5 minute cure time - 50 ml size.

APPLICATIONS: Dispense equal amounts, mix completely. Apply with palette knife or spreader. Press in grain with grain pad within 2 minutes. Sand after 5 minutes.

Step 2: FILLING

Decide between an air-dry repair or a heat-cure repair (requiring a heat gun or a mini-iron for curing).

Note: Only vinyl surfaces can be repaired by heat cure processes, hard molded vinyl and plastic may distort when high heat is applied.

AIR DRY REPAIR

A) Light Damage: To fill small holes, use the medium - to high-density cyanoacrylates, such as Power Gel (SPG), or for more a flexible finish, Flex Gel Clear (FGC) or Flex Gel Black (FGB). Apply the adhesive directly or with a palette knife as delicately as possible. Be sure not to leave any air holes inside the damaged area or on the surrounding borders/edges. Next, apply Zip Kicker (PT10 or PT15) to the adhesive to accelerate drying. Continue by sanding mildly with 20-400 grit sandpaper until smooth. For deeper damages, apply a coat of Zip Kicker to the base of the damage before applying the adhesive.

Repeat process until desired results.

For small holes you can choose to pass directly to all the sealing process after filling to surface level.

TIP: If you press the surface with a Teflon Mat and a Chill Bar immediately after covering it with Zip Kicker, you will lessen any borders/edges and ensure a closer surface-level repair. The Teflon Mat will not adhere to cyanoacrylates.

B) Mid-Sized Damage: Use Dash Putty (DP), a practical solution for efficient molding and filling.

Cut a piece of Dash Putty and knead it together with your hands to obtain a uniform color. Then fill the damaged area, molding the Dash Putty in the hole, making sure not to leave any air holes. Remove any extra product and remember that Dash Putty starts to harden after 2 minutes. .

TIP: For a smooth finish, rub the Dash Putty with a wet finger or a damp cloth before hardening.

For any small holes or gaps, use A) "light damage" to finish off repair.

C) Mid-to-Large Sized Holes/Gaps: Use Tuff Fill (TF) with the Applicator (TFA).
Fill with (TF) Tuff Fill to surface level. The product consist of two components, squeeze out equal parts of both products A (clear) & B (black). Mix both components thoroughly on a flat surface (using a palette knife) to obtain a uniform mixture. Apply the mixture into the damaged area, even out the level of the repair during drying.

Approx. filling time: 50 seconds.

Approx. working/shaping/graining time: 2 minutes.

As the Tuff Fill hardens, use a Grain Pad to press in a grain. Sand after 2 minutes.
For any small holes or gaps, use A) "light damage" to finish off repair.

HEAT-CURE COMPOUND REPAIR

HOT IRON METHOD: (Vinyl only)

Before beginning repair, holes should be filled to within 1/8" of the surface. Now fill the repair to the surface, using Leather Repair Compound (LRC), low heat cure compound.

A) Repairing Small and Mid-Sized Damage:

Fill the damaged area with Leather Repair Compound, exceeding the damaged area by about a 1 1/4" and making the edges as smooth as possible. Lay the Teflon Mat over the area and cure the compound by ironing it with medium pressure back and forth (with Ultra Torch or Mini-Iron) until the compound is cured. Curing time depends on the thickness of the compound and the heat setting.

IMPORTANT: Before removing the Teflon Mat, apply the alum aluminum Chill Bar to the Teflon Mat to cool the repair and keep the Teflon Mat from sticking.
To texture the repair, place a Graining Paper over the repaired area. Lay the Teflon Mat over the Graining Paper and iron. A light browning of the paper indicates the repair may well be cured. Again, use the chill bar before removing the paper for inspection.

Next, clean the repair with Triclean Prep Cleaner (TC) to remove any possible residue.

B) Repairing Larger Damage:

For greater damage (superior to the diameter of a finger) use Fine Mesh (FM) and Leather Repair Compound (LRC), low heat cure compound.

Before beginning repair, holes should be filled to within 1/8" of the surface
Apply Leather Repair Compound to the damaged area, protruding the area by 1/4”, as smoothly and evenly as possible. Then cut a piece of Fine Mesh to approximately 1/8” larger than the damaged area and spread it over the Leather Repair Compound. Now apply a coat of Leather Repair Compound over the Fine Mesh, making it as smooth and even as possible. Lay the Teflon Mat over the area and cure the compound pound by ironing it with medium pressure back and forth (with the Ultra Torch or Mini-Iron) until the compound is cured. Curing time depends on the thickness of the compound and the heat setting.

IMPORTANT: Before removing the Teflon Mat, apply the aluminum Chill Bar to the Teflon Mat to cool the repair and keep the Teflon Mat from sticking.

To texture the repair, place a Graining Paper over the repaired area. Lay the Teflon Mat over the Graining Paper and iron. A light browning of the paper indicates the repair may well be cured. Again, use the chill bar before removing the paper for inspection.

Next, clean the repair with Triclean Prep Cleaner (TC) to remove any possible residue. In some cases, after observing and verifying that your repair has not achieved the desired result, you may need to repeat the process until the desired result is achieved. Keep in mind that excessive heat can damage thin vinyl.

All Heat Cure Repair Compounds can be directly textured with a Graining Pad by using a heat gun instead of hot iron.

After curing, apply additional heat to eat the repair compound. The Heat Cure Repair Compound will brighten and begin to smoke. At this moment, apply the graining pad to the smoking compound by pressing evenly with the Chill Bar to the texture to the repair. For areas larger than the Graining Pad, or to texturize the borders of the repair, apply the heat gun to specific areas of the repair an and avoid heating the areas previously textured, then press the graining pad on the smoking area to achieved the desired result. If the surface level of the repair is inferior to the surface of the part, apply additional coats of Heat Cure Repair Compound and repeat the curing process until the desired result is achieved.

Step 3: SEALING

This is an essential step to ensure maximum resistance for the repair, as well as hiding any flaws, marks or rings resulting from the repairs.

To seal, spray or wipe on Plastic Coater (PC) as a primer. Spray with a spray gun or a Preval Sprayer (using a preval will also add a pebble grain finish) allow to dry, spray a second coat over the entire repair area to guarantee adhesion and a smooth, even finish.

Step 4: TEXTURING

Several options are available for achieving the perfect texture for your repair. Some grains offer varying degrees of intensity or flexibility, while others can be used for more complex textures. Before choosing, test the products on a smooth, un-textured part (cardboard – piece of plastic/vinyl – unnoticeable area etc.) with a small amount of each product in all different places. Then choose your texture.

Option 1: Restoring the exact original texture
Liquid Gel:

Option 2: Spray Grains

To give a pebble grain texture to the repair or the entire part:

  • (ASG) Aerosol Spray Grain (clear water-base) light to medium grain.
  • (S-3) Spray-On-Grain (clear water-base) medium grain.
  • (W-2) Spray Grain (clear water-base) for a light grain.
  • (39803) Chipguard (clear solvent-base) med. heavy grain.
  • (39853) Med. Texture Coating (black solvent-base) medium grain.
  • (39793) Heavy Texture (black solvent-base) heavy grain texture.

To apply, simply spray the new texture over a wide area in and around the repair, including over the entire piece if desired. You can increase the intensity of the texture by spraying closer to the surface.

Option 3:

Option 4: Other Textures

The cyanoacrylate adhesive (SPG) Power Gel can be used successfully for both small and medium repairs, using a very simple and quick process. Apply Power Gel on a small piece of scotch brite pad (red or gray) or foam. Dab the repair lightly to create a grain, spray with Zip Kicker to speed drying. If needed, lightly sand to achieve a desired texture.

Step 5: COLOR

To color the piece, consult the corresponding "Applying Color" part of the training manual.

Repair Instructions

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